Novi recepti

Nagrade i zamke kulinarskih škola

Nagrade i zamke kulinarskih škola

Nedavno je Francuski kulinarski institut počastio svoje alumniste godišnjom ceremonijom dodjele nagrada Alumni Awards kojoj su prisustvovali dekani Alain Sailhac, Andre Soltner, Jacques Torres, bivši primatelji, te izvršna direktorica i osnivačica FCI -a, Dorothy Cann Hamilton.

"Prije gotovo 20 godina osnovali smo nagradu The Outstanding Alumni Awards kako bismo prepoznali nevjerovatna postignuća koja su naši alumni postigli, a našim studentima dali nešto čemu treba težiti", rekla je gospođa Hamilton, "Ovogodišnja klasa izvanrednih bivših studenata zaista predstavlja raznolikost i talent koju FCI nastoji njegovati kod naših učenika. To što ih priznaju vršnjaci samo dodatno razlikuje ovih pet pojedinaca na polju prepunom talenta. "

Svaki pobjednik dobio je certifikat koji je ručno oslikao dekan Jacques Pépin. Posegnuli smo da otkrijemo više o njihovim kulinarskim iskustvima - nezaboravnim vještinama i naučenim lekcijama, njihovim najvećim greškama, iznenađenjima koja su ih čekala nakon škole i koje bi savjete dali nedavno diplomiranim studentima.

Nagrada za izuzetna profesionalna dostignuća:
Mark Dissin, kulinarstvo '97
Potpredsjednik za proizvodnju, Food Network

Nagrada za izvanredan kruh:
Roger Gural, Bread ‘98
Pekar/konsultant, Payard

Nagrada za izvanredno pecivo:
Christina Tosi, poslastičarnica ‘04
Slastičar, Momofuku Milk Bar

Nagrada za izvrsnu upravu restorana:
Laura Pensiero, kulinarska ‘92
Vlasnik/menadžer, Gigi Trattoria (Rhinebeck, NY)

Koja je najupečatljivija vještina koju ste naučili u FCI -u?

Dissin: Teško je reći koje vještine se najvise sjećam da sam naučio, jer iskreno, bilo ih je mnogo. Za mene se pretpostavljam da se učenje pravilnih vještina noža posebno pamti jer ih stalno koristim. Očigledan je izbor i kako slomiti piletinu ili kako filetirati ribu. Ali ako bih morao izdvojiti jednu vještinu koja me, do danas, nekako čudi, to bi morala biti tehnika koju je Sixto demonstrirao za sjeckanje i sušenje peršina za posipanje kao ukras. Nakon što je oprao i nasjeckao peršin, stavio ga je u čisti bočni ručnik i smotao u čvrsto pakiranje. Zatim ga je stavio pod stalan mlaz hladne vode dok voda nije postala bistra. Nakon toga je uvrnuo ručnik istjeravši svu vodu. Zatim je otvorio ručnik i, na zaprepaštenje svih, otkrio suh, pahuljast peršun, bez grudvica i spreman za upotrebu. U 13 godina od kada sam naučio ovaj trik, vjerovatno sam ga koristio pola tuceta, jer je, na kraju krajeva, prilično dugotrajan proces, ali ipak cool.

Gural: Tečaj hljeba je relativno kratak pa je teško osjetiti da ste zaista savladali bilo koju vještinu. Jednostavno nema dovoljno vremena za ponavljanje različitih pokreta kako biste bili sigurni u njih. Najvažnije stvari koje sam oduzeo s časa bilo je povećanje moga uzbuđenja i strasti prema hrani, zahvalnost što sam u blizini drugih ljudi koji vole hranu i osjećaj koliko vremena i koncentracije ulaže u zanat.

Tosi: Vjerovali ili ne, to je kako očistiti ananas. Ovo je jedno zaista čudno sjećanje koje se sjećam jednog ili dva dana kada naučite praviti kolač od svježeg voća. Instruktor vas podučava skoro pred kraj časa, kada ste toliko iscrpljeni od uzbuđenja za početak i iscrpljeni od koncentracije prvih ili dva dana. Sjećam se da je samo polovina razreda obraćala pažnju i sjećam se da sam mislila da su svi ludi što ne gledaju i ne guraju se okolo! Retko koristimo ananas u kuhinji u Milk Baru. Ali kad god neko kaže da dolazi iz programa poslastičarstva, a kaže da ne zna kako očistiti ananas, uvijek znam na kojoj su strani učionice bili.

Pensiero: Klasični umaci na mene su zaista ostavili utisak. Bio sam oduševljen kako su otvorili ogromna vrata za kreativnost zasnovanu na zdravim temeljima. Učenje osnova ovih umaka i osnove njihove pripreme otvorilo je put neograničenih mogućnosti u kuhanju i stvaranju.

Koje se nefizičke vještine/lekcije iz škole najviše sjećate?

Dissin: Mislim da je jedna nefizička vještina koju sam uzeo iz svog iskustva u FCI-u pojam intuitivnog kuhanja. U godinama nakon diplomiranja, uključujući vrijeme provedeno u kuhinji restorana, mislim da nisam kuhala po receptu više od 25 puta. FCI -jev nastavni plan i program, izgrađen na osnovama koje se mogu primijeniti na gotovo svaku kuhinju, usvaja bazu znanja - ili mišićnu memoriju - koja s vremenom kuhanje čini potpuno intuitivnim procesom. U svom trenutnom poslu, koji se bavi proizvodnjom sadržaja za kuhanje za Food Network, mogu pročitati recept, vidjeti i probati jelo, i što je još važnije, vizualizirati proces i procijeniti hoće li to biti privlačna TV ponuda.

Gural: Hleb ima neverovatno dugu istoriju i raznolikost i to nije nešto u čemu brzo postajete vešti, ako postanete previše samopouzdani, vrlo brzo ćete biti poniženi. Stvari koje sam naučio ili počeo shvaćati je da morate pronaći zadovoljstvo u ponavljanju, fokusirati se čak i na najmanje geste, biti zapanjeni dubinom svega što se zna, ali ne biti opterećeni svime što ne znate. Biti skroman i pun poštovanja i zahvalan što možemo sudjelovati u ovoj aktivnosti koja nas povezuje s pekarima kroz tisuće godina.

Tosi: Za vrijeme odjeljka obloženih slastica pred kraj programa umjetnosti slastičarstva, sjećam se da sam zaista naučio razmišljati o hrani, parfemu okusa i svom gledištu na sve to. Da moram da napravim desertni desert za projekat, šta bi to bilo? Sljedeće sedmice pretvarajte se da imate restoran, napravite desert i recite nam o tome, zašto i kako. Kako se čita na jelovniku - svaki opis jelovnika obećanje je vašem gostu i dugujete mu da se pobrinete da ispunite to obećanje i očekivanja. Kuhar Jurgen me zaista naučio toliko nefizičkoj vještini razmišljanja o desertima na vlastiti način.

Pensiero: Rad organizovan. Pomoglo mi je u svim višestrukim zadacima koje moj život sada zahtijeva.

Koja je najveća greška koju ste ikada napravili u kulinarskoj školi?

Dissin: Ne mogu se sjetiti nijedne greške koju sam napravio na času, ali jednom, dok smo pripremali porodični obrok za učenike i osoblje, bacio sam šalicu crvenih čili pahuljica u šerpu i stavio je na tihu vatru ... i zaboravila na to. Za života, ne mogu se sjetiti što bi me natjeralo da prepečem čili pahuljice, ali čega se sjećam, sasvim živo, nastao je dim koji je jedan instruktor uporedio sa suzavcem. Svi smo trčali unaokolo i kašljali, kihali i suzali, a Henri je, nakon što je izbacio sadržaj posude u smeće, potpuno jasno rekao da je upravo svjedočio jednoj od najglupljih stvari koje je ikada vidio u kuhinji.

Gural: Nisam siguran šta sam pogrešio, ali sam zabrljao brioš sa ukusom narandže koji sam napravio za svoje finale. Bilo je jestivo, ali ni izbliza nije bilo tako dobro kao kad smo to učinili klasom.

Tosi: Kao dio svog posljednjeg projekta imala sam srdačne trešnje. Prepuno sam ih napunio, ili je vani bilo toliko vruće, a klima je bila na frci, ili jednostavno nisam dovoljno voljela srdačne višnje. Nepotrebno je reći da sam potrošio oko 75% trodnevnog završnog projekta na pravljenje tih prokletih srdačnih poruka. Izgubio sam razum. Izgubio sam neke suze (koliko dramatično, znam). Kuhar Toni ih je brzo osušio i okrenuo me. Nisam ih voljela dovoljno, sigurna sam, i to je bio izvor svake slastice koju sam radila u kulinarskoj školi.

Pensiero: Verujem da je moj poslednji bio lovac na piletinu - zaboravio sam da dodam svoje lardone na završnoj prezentaciji.

Šta je bilo najveće iznenađenje? Šta niste mogli naučiti u školi?

Dissin: Nisam siguran da sam shvatio ovo pitanje. Došao sam u školu, kao 41-godišnji domaći kuhar sa vrlo prosječnim ili ispodprosječnim vještinama, i otišao s tonom znanja i prilično solidnim talentom za kuhanje i pripremu hrane-dovoljno da me kuhar zaposli i vjerujem da neću ne šaljem lošu hranu svojim mušterijama. Tako da je za mene skoro sve što sam naučio bilo iznenađenje.

Gural: Program za kruh bio je zaista zabavan, ali nakon nekoliko godina rada u industriji počeo sam stjecati veću odgovornost i sav stres koji nosi s tim. Pa bih rekao nedostatak sna i suočavanje sa stresom.

Tosi: Koliko bih čokolade mogao pojesti sedam sati dnevno, većinu od 8:30 do 9:30 ujutro. Prilično sam siguran da dugujem povraćaj poreza FCI -u na sve čokoladne i operne kolače i burbon kolačiće od viskija. Bez srama, znam.

Pensiero: Izdržljivost i upornost koja je potrebna prehrambenoj industriji. Također, mogućnosti stvaranja vlastite karijere mogu se iskoristiti ako dodate dobre kulinarske temelje.

Koji je jedan savjet za nekoga ko je tek završio kulinarsku školu?

Dissin: Imam dva savjeta za skorašnje studente. Prva je sezona, okus i ponovna sezona. Svi ste ispod sezone. Drugi je slijediti svoju strast. Ne morate imati fino usklađen petogodišnji plan, skoro niko to ne radi, ali ako ste strastveni oko jedne stvari, slijedite tu strast. Za većinu diplomaca, međutim, pretpostavljam da su ciljevi vjerovatno više na nejasnoj strani. Kad sam završio školu, nisam imao nikakvih stvarnih ciljeva osim da testiram svoje sposobnosti u profesionalnoj kuhinji i da počnem zarađivati ​​dio novca koji sam upravo uložio u svoje obrazovanje. Gledajući unatrag, to je bio jedan od najispunjenijih poslova koje sam ikada imao, ali nakon otprilike godinu i pol dana bio sam previše svjestan da se kuhanje na žici najbolje radi u vašim dvadesetima, a ne u četrdesetima. Srećom, uspio sam uzeti ono što sam naučio u FCI -u i u restoranima, te se oženiti onim što sam radio 18 godina prije škole i pretočiti to u svoj sadašnji posao. Da li bih završio ovdje gdje sam danas, a da nisam uskočio u posao u restoranu? Vjerovatno ne. Pritisci zaposlene kuhinje pripremaju vas za druge napore na načine koje je teško kvantificirati. Dakle, za većinu diplomaca moj savjet je da se odlučite i zaposlite u restoranu.

Gural: Iskoristite stručnost i iskustvo ljudi oko vas, budite otvoreni i učite od njih. Nosite bilježnicu i zapišite stvari kako vam se ljudi ne bi ponavljali. Budite spremni i imajte plan. Tražite i pronađite posao kako biste uvijek bili produktivni. Ako možete uštedjeti osobi koja vas obučava, to će cijeniti i imat ćete više mogućnosti za učenje i napredak.

Tosi: Svaku minutu shvatite ozbiljno. Gurajte se svake minute. Ceo život ste čekali da radite ono što volite. Nemojte varati sebe ili svoju porodicu u FCI -u. Ako ćete skočiti i posvetiti se, zaista uspite. To je ono što znači biti u kuhinji i dio ove industrije. Upoznajte sebe kao prehrambenu ličnost, šta volite, šta ne volite. Prihvati ga. Neki od nas su dekorateri kolača, drugi čokoladari, a drugi slastičari sa razrađenim konceptima. Ali nema ograničenja - postoji prostor za svakoga od nas da budemo svoji unutar industrije, sve dok smo iskreni po tom pitanju. Unesite svoju strast i vozite se sa sobom svaki dan, a kući svako veče sa vama. Postoje granice u našim glavama, ono što mislimo da jesmo i nismo sposobni učiniti za jedan dan ili naučiti raditi s vremenom. Pronađite ih, snađite se oko njih, izvucite ih s puta. I nastavi. To je ono što znači biti u kuhinji i dio ove industrije.

Pensiero: Recite "da" svim prilikama, čak i kada je izvan vaše zone udobnosti. Zatim vrijedno i ponizno radite na popunjavanju praznina u vještinama/znanju kako biste uspješno obavili zadatak. Konačno, pronađite svoje mentore, pokažite im poštovanje koje zaslužuju i ostanite u kontaktu s njima.


10 najboljih kulinarskih memoara

Kad sam pisala o večerama koje sam imala sa starijim prijateljem Edwardom, rano sam odlučila da ne unosim nikakve recepte. Edward, uspješan kuhar, rijetko je zapisivao upute za, recimo, svoje kamenice Rockefellera ili piletinu paillard. Iako je hrana koju smo jeli svakako bila važna, knjiga nije trebala biti kuharica, već memoari o prirodi prijateljstva.

U ovoj potrazi, inspirirala me bogata literatura o kulinarstvu u kojoj je hrana središnji motiv, ali je spojena pričom o njenoj pripremi i zajedništvom koje dolazi iz dijeljenja obroka. Toliko pisaca - od MFK Fisher -a, koji je lirski pisao o užicima samog objedovanja, do njujorške kuharice Gabrielle Hamilton, koja je dokumentirala svoj odgoj u mukama kroz porodične obroke - koriste hranu kao katalizator sjećanja i ljubavne nostalgije.

Iako sam još uvijek veliki obožavatelj dobre knjige recepata - bilo čega što su napisali Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi i Julia Child - priče u lijepo prevedenim memoarima ostaju mi ​​duže nego bilo koji recept. To je Nigel Slater koji koristi spaljeni tost kao metaforu za majčinu ljubav, a Anne Fadiman se opija kao tinejdžerka kada pokušava udovoljiti ocu opsjednutom vinom. U nastavku donosimo ono što smatram nekim od najboljih kulinarskih memoara.

1. Kći ljubitelja vina: Uspomena Anne Fadiman
Najnovija Fadimanova knjiga o njenom ocu, američkom piscu i radiju Cliftonu Fadimanu, vješto je napisana memoarska priča-priča o punoljetstvu napisana oko enofilije njenog oca. On je bio "loš vozač i daktilograf sa dva prsta", piše ona, "ali mogao je otvoriti bocu vina vješto kao što je to bilo koji švabac svukao svoju ljubavnicu".

2. Gastronomski ja, MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher bila je ispred svog vremena. Nakon što je sa svojim novim mužem u Dijonu provela “dvije treseći i praveći godine života”, početkom 1940 -ih vratila se u Kaliforniju gdje je postala ozbiljna spisateljica hrane. Gastronomski ja prepričava neke od njenih vrlo poetičnih susreta s hranom. Ovdje je bila žena koja nije voljela ništa više od večere sama u restoranu „kao da sam sama gost, prema meni beskrajno ljubazno“.

MFK Fisher kod kuće 1971. Fotografija: Richard Drew/AP

3. Krv, kosti i maslac: Nehotično obrazovanje kuhara koji nerado radi, Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton vodi Prune, dragulj restorana u istočnom selu New Yorka. Ona je takođe nadarena spisateljica koja vas vodi na putovanje od teške adolescencije u ruralnoj Pensilvaniji do njujorškog kvarta Hell's Kitchen, u koji se preseli nakon srednje škole prije nego što otvori svoj restoran.

4. Kuhanje kod kuće: Pisac u kuhinji, Laurie Colwin
Memoari pisca New Yorkera i kolumniste časopisa Gourmet govore o radostima kuhanja kod kuće. Iz svoje male kuhinje u Greenwich Villageu piše o obrocima koje dijeli sa prijateljima i porodicom. „Volim da jedem napolju, ali još više volim da jedem unutra“, kaže ona. Zaljubio sam se u običnu izvanrednost njenih priča, oslanjanje na raspoložive resurse i oruđe za stvaranje nečeg divnog. To je ono što sam toliko pokušavao uhvatiti u svoju knjigu.

5. Razmislite o kamenici MFK Fisher
WH Auden nazvao je Fishera "najvećim američkim piscem", što je moj izgovor što sam odabrao drugu knjigu. Lako je razumjeti zašto joj se pjesnik toliko divio, u ovom tankom izdanju iz 1941. - oda gastronomskoj nagradi. "Kamenica vodi užasan, ali uzbudljiv život", počinje ona. Fisher vam govori sve što ste htjeli znati o ovom školjkašu i sjajno piše o takvim nepoznatim sastojcima kao što je Herbsaint.

6. Moj život u Francuskoj, Julia Child, sa Alex Prud'homme
Sjajan izvještaj o dječjem životu u Parizu nakon Drugog svjetskog rata. Radeći sa svojim unukom Alexom Prud'hommeom, veliki kuhar prisjeća se susreta sa svojim mužem Paulom na još tadašnjem Cejlonu dok su oboje radili za Ured za strateške usluge, preteču CIA -e. Kad se Paul zaposlio u Parizu, Julia se udubila u francusku kuhinju. Njen opis jedenja đona meunière po prvi put u jednom restoranu u Rouenu prima slatko: "Stigao je cijeli: veliki, ravni doverski đon koji je bio savršeno zapečen u umaku od maslaca s prskanjem na vrhu posipanog peršuna."

Julia Child u svom domu u Cambridgeu, Massachusetts. Fotografija: Rick Friedman/Corbis preko Getty Images

7. Kuhanje za gospodina Lattea: Udvaranje ljubitelja hrane s receptima Amande Hesser
Naslov "Mr Latte" je autorov dečko, pisac poznatog New Yorkera koji ima prilično loš ukus u hrani. Iako ljubazan i inteligentan, završava svaki izvrstan obrok koji dijele s finim jelima lattea. Prvo ispričano u ratama za New York Times gdje je Hesser radio kao pisac hrane, ovo je ljubavno pismo New Yorku i hrani koliko i čovjeku s kojim se Hesser na kraju ženi.

8. Više Kuhanje doma: Pisac se vraća u kuhinju, Laurie Colwin
Budući da se ovdje radi o apetitu, preporučit ću drugu pomoć Colwina. Osećam pravo srodstvo s njom jer delim njenu opsesiju onim što ljudi jedu kod kuće. Napisana godine kada je Colwin umro u dobi od samo 50 godina, ovo je rasprava o važnosti porodične večere - bez obzira na to koga smatrate porodicom. "Znamo da bismo bez hrane umrli", piše ona. "Bez zajedništva život nije vrijedan življenja."

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater, Gail Simmons
Simmons je voditeljica/sutkinja na Bravo's Top Chefu, ali je i kanadska kolegica koja se borila kako bi uspjela u teškoj industriji u New Yorku. U svojim memoarima ona piše o odrastanju u Torontu s majkom koja je pisala rubrike s hranom i vodila sate kuhanja u svom prigradskom domu. Simmonsovo suđenje u nekim od najtežih vrhunskih kuhinja u New Yorku čini odlično štivo.


10 najboljih kulinarskih memoara

Kad sam pisala o večerama koje sam imala sa starijim prijateljem Edwardom, rano sam odlučila da ne unosim nikakve recepte. Edward, uspješan kuhar, rijetko je zapisivao upute za, recimo, svoje kamenice Rockefellera ili piletinu paillard. Iako je hrana koju smo jeli svakako bila važna, knjiga nije trebala biti kuharica, već memoari o prirodi prijateljstva.

U ovoj potrazi, inspirirala me bogata literatura o kulinarstvu u kojoj je hrana središnji motiv, ali je spojena pričom o njenoj pripremi i zajedništvom koje dolazi iz dijeljenja obroka. Toliko pisaca - od MFK Fisher -a, koji je lirski pisao o užicima samog objedovanja, do njujorške kuharice Gabrielle Hamilton, koja je dokumentirala svoj odgoj u mukama kroz porodične obroke - koriste hranu kao katalizator sjećanja i ljubavne nostalgije.

Iako sam još uvijek veliki obožavatelj dobre knjige recepata - bilo čega što su napisali Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi i Julia Child - priče u lijepo prevedenim memoarima ostaju mi ​​duže nego bilo koji recept. To je Nigel Slater koji koristi spaljeni tost kao metaforu za majčinu ljubav, a Anne Fadiman se opija kao tinejdžerka kada pokušava udovoljiti ocu opsjednutom vinom. U nastavku donosimo ono što smatram nekim od najboljih kulinarskih memoara.

1. Kći ljubitelja vina: Uspomena Anne Fadiman
Najnovija Fadimanova knjiga o njenom ocu, američkom piscu i radijskoj ličnosti Cliftonu Fadimanu, vješto je napisana memoarska knjiga-priča o punoljetstvu napisana oko enofilije njenog oca. On je bio "loš vozač i daktilograf sa dva prsta", piše ona, "ali mogao je otvoriti bocu vina vješto kao što je to bilo koji švabac svukao svoju ljubavnicu".

2. Gastronomski ja, MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher bila je ispred svog vremena. Nakon što je sa svojim novim mužem u Dijonu provela “dvije treseći i praveći godine života”, početkom 1940 -ih vratila se u Kaliforniju gdje je postala ozbiljna spisateljica hrane. Gastronomski ja prepričava neke od njenih vrlo poetičnih susreta s hranom. Ovdje je bila žena koja nije voljela ništa više od večere sama u restoranu „kao da sam sama gost, prema meni beskrajno ljubazno“.

MFK Fisher kod kuće 1971. Fotografija: Richard Drew/AP

3. Krv, kosti i maslac: Nehotično obrazovanje kuhara koji nerado radi, Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton vodi Prune, dragulj restorana u istočnom selu New Yorka. Ona je i nadarena spisateljica koja vas vodi na putovanje od teške adolescencije u ruralnoj Pensilvaniji do njujorške četvrti Hell's Kitchen, u koju se seli nakon srednje škole prije nego što otvori svoj restoran.

4. Kuhanje kod kuće: Pisac u kuhinji, Laurie Colwin
Memoari pisca New Yorkera i kolumniste časopisa Gourmet govore o radostima kuhanja kod kuće. Iz svoje male kuhinje u Greenwich Villageu piše o obrocima koje dijeli sa prijateljima i porodicom. „Volim da jedem napolju, ali još više volim da jedem unutra“, kaže ona. Zaljubio sam se u običnu izvanrednost njenih priča, oslanjanje na raspoložive resurse i oruđe za stvaranje nečeg divnog. To je ono što sam toliko pokušavao uhvatiti u svoju knjigu.

5. Razmislite o kamenici MFK Fishera
WH Auden nazvao je Fishera "najvećim američkim piscem", što je moj izgovor što sam odabrao drugu knjigu. Lako je razumjeti zašto joj se pjesnik toliko divio, u ovom tankom izdanju iz 1941. - oda gastronomskoj nagradi. "Kamenica vodi užasan, ali uzbudljiv život", počinje ona. Fisher vam govori sve što ste htjeli znati o ovom školjkašu i sjajno piše o takvim nepoznatim sastojcima kao što je Herbsaint.

6. Moj život u Francuskoj, Julia Child, sa Alex Prud'homme
Sjajan izvještaj o dječjem životu u Parizu nakon Drugog svjetskog rata. Radeći sa svojim unukom Alexom Prud'hommeom, veliki kuhar prisjeća se susreta sa svojim mužem Paulom na još tadašnjem Cejlonu dok su oboje radili za Ured za strateške usluge, preteču CIA -e. Kad se Paul zaposlio u Parizu, Julia se udubila u francusku kuhinju. Njen opis jedenja đona meunière po prvi put u jednom restoranu u Rouenu prima slatko: "Stigao je cijeli: veliki, ravni doverski đon koji je bio savršeno zapečen u umaku od maslaca s prskanjem na vrhu posipanog peršuna."

Julia Child u svom domu u Cambridgeu, Massachusetts. Fotografija: Rick Friedman/Corbis preko Getty Images

7. Kuhanje za gospodina Lattea: Udvaranje ljubitelja hrane s receptima Amande Hesser
Naslov "Mr Latte" je autorov dečko, pisac poznatog New Yorkera koji ima prilično loš ukus u hrani. Iako ljubazan i inteligentan, završava svaki izvrstan obrok koji dijele s finim jelima lattea. Prvo ispričano u ratama za New York Times gdje je Hesser radio kao pisac hrane, ovo je ljubavno pismo New Yorku i hrani koliko i čovjeku s kojim se Hesser na kraju ženi.

8. Više Kuhanje doma: Pisac se vraća u kuhinju, Laurie Colwin
Budući da se ovdje radi o apetitu, preporučit ću drugu pomoć Colwina. Osećam pravo srodstvo s njom jer delim njenu opsesiju onim što ljudi jedu kod kuće. Napisana godine kada je Colwin umro u dobi od samo 50 godina, ovo je rasprava o važnosti porodične večere - bez obzira na to koga smatrate porodicom. "Znamo da bismo bez hrane umrli", piše ona. "Bez zajedništva život nije vrijedan življenja."

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater, Gail Simmons
Simmons je voditeljica/sutkinja Bravo's Top Chefa, ali je i kolegica iz Kanade koja se borila kako bi uspjela u teškoj industriji u New Yorku. U svojim memoarima ona piše o odrastanju u Torontu s majkom koja je pisala rubrike s hranom i vodila sate kuhanja u svom prigradskom domu. Simmonsovo suđenje u nekim od najtežih vrhunskih kuhinja u New Yorku čini odlično štivo.


10 najboljih kulinarskih memoara

Kad sam pisala o večerama koje sam imala sa starijim prijateljem Edwardom, rano sam odlučila da ne unosim nikakve recepte. Edward, uspješan kuhar, rijetko je zapisivao upute za, recimo, svoje kamenice Rockefellera ili piletinu paillard. Iako je hrana koju smo jeli svakako bila važna, knjiga nije trebala biti kuharica, već memoari o prirodi prijateljstva.

U ovoj potrazi, inspirirala me bogata literatura o kulinarstvu u kojoj je hrana središnji motiv, ali je spojena pričom o njenoj pripremi i zajedništvom koje dolazi iz dijeljenja obroka. Toliko pisaca - od MFK Fisher -a, koji je lirski pisao o užicima samog objedovanja, do njujorške kuharice Gabrielle Hamilton, koja je dokumentirala svoj odgoj u mukama kroz porodične obroke - koriste hranu kao katalizator sjećanja i ljubavne nostalgije.

Iako sam još uvijek veliki obožavatelj dobre knjige recepata - bilo čega što su napisali Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi i Julia Child - priče u lijepo prevedenim memoarima ostaju mi ​​duže nego bilo koji recept. To je Nigel Slater koji koristi spaljeni tost kao metaforu za majčinu ljubav, a Anne Fadiman se opija kao tinejdžerka kada pokušava udovoljiti ocu opsjednutom vinom. U nastavku donosimo ono što smatram nekim od najboljih kulinarskih memoara.

1. Kći ljubitelja vina: Uspomene Anne Fadiman
Najnovija Fadimanova knjiga o njenom ocu, američkom piscu i radiju Cliftonu Fadimanu, vješto je napisana memoarska priča-priča o punoljetstvu napisana oko enofilije njenog oca. On je bio "loš vozač i daktilograf sa dva prsta", piše ona, "ali mogao je otvoriti bocu vina vješto kao što je to bilo koji švabac svukao svoju ljubavnicu".

2. Gastronomski ja, MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher bila je ispred svog vremena. Nakon što je sa svojim novim mužem u Dijonu provela “dvije treseći i praveći godine života”, početkom 1940 -ih vratila se u Kaliforniju gdje je postala ozbiljna spisateljica hrane. Gastronomski ja prepričava neke od njenih vrlo poetičnih susreta s hranom. Ovdje je bila žena koja nije voljela ništa više od večere sama u restoranu „kao da sam sama gost, prema meni beskrajno ljubazno“.

MFK Fisher kod kuće 1971. Fotografija: Richard Drew/AP

3. Krv, kosti i maslac: Nehotično obrazovanje kuhara koji nerado radi, Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton vodi Prune, dragulj restorana u istočnom selu New Yorka. Ona je i nadarena spisateljica koja vas vodi na putovanje od teške adolescencije u ruralnoj Pensilvaniji do njujorške četvrti Hell's Kitchen, u koju se seli nakon srednje škole prije nego što otvori svoj restoran.

4. Kuhanje kod kuće: Pisac u kuhinji, Laurie Colwin
Memoari pisca New Yorkera i kolumniste časopisa Gourmet govore o radostima kuhanja kod kuće. Iz svoje male kuhinje u Greenwich Villageu piše o obrocima koje dijeli sa prijateljima i porodicom. „Volim da jedem napolju, ali još više volim da jedem unutra“, kaže ona. Zaljubio sam se u običnu izvanrednost njenih priča, oslanjanje na raspoložive resurse i oruđe za stvaranje nečeg divnog. To je ono što sam toliko pokušavao uhvatiti u svoju knjigu.

5. Razmislite o kamenici MFK Fisher
WH Auden nazvao je Fishera "najvećim američkim piscem", što je moj izgovor što sam odabrao drugu knjigu. Lako je razumjeti zašto joj se pjesnik toliko divio, u ovom tankom izdanju iz 1941. - oda gastronomskoj nagradi. "Kamenica vodi užasan, ali uzbudljiv život", počinje ona. Fisher vam govori sve što ste htjeli znati o ovom školjkašu i sjajno piše o takvim nepoznatim sastojcima kao što je Herbsaint.

6. Moj život u Francuskoj, Julia Child, sa Alex Prud'homme
Sjajan izvještaj o dječjem životu u Parizu nakon Drugog svjetskog rata. Radeći sa svojim unukom Alexom Prud'hommeom, veliki kuhar prisjeća se susreta sa svojim mužem Paulom na još tadašnjem Cejlonu dok su oboje radili za Ured za strateške usluge, preteču CIA -e. Kad se Paul zaposlio u Parizu, Julia se udubila u francusku kuhinju. Njen opis jedenja đona meunière po prvi put u jednom restoranu u Rouenu prima slast: „Stigao je cijeli: veliki, ravni doverski đon koji je bio savršeno zapečen u umaku od maslaca s prskanjem s posipom sjeckanog peršina na vrhu.“

Julia Child u svom domu u Cambridgeu, Massachusetts. Fotografija: Rick Friedman/Corbis preko Getty Images

7. Kuhanje za gospodina Lattea: Udvaranje ljubitelja hrane s receptima Amande Hesser
Naslov "Mr Latte" je autorov dečko, pisac poznatog New Yorkera koji ima prilično loš ukus u hrani. Iako ljubazan i inteligentan, završava svaki izvrstan obrok koji dijele s finim jelima lattea. Prvo ispričano u ratama za New York Times gdje je Hesser radio kao pisac hrane, ovo je isto ljubavno pismo New Yorku i hrani koliko i čovjeku s kojim se Hesser na kraju ženi.

8. Više Kuhanje doma: Pisac se vraća u kuhinju, Laurie Colwin
Budući da se ovdje radi o apetitu, preporučit ću drugu pomoć Colwina. Osećam pravo srodstvo s njom jer delim njenu opsesiju onim što ljudi jedu kod kuće. Napisana godine kada je Colwin umro u dobi od samo 50 godina, ovo je rasprava o važnosti porodične večere - bez obzira na to koga smatrate porodicom. "Znamo da bismo bez hrane umrli", piše ona. "Bez zajedništva život nije vrijedan življenja."

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater, Gail Simmons
Simmons je voditeljica/sutkinja Bravo's Top Chefa, ali je i kanadska kolegica koja se borila kako bi uspjela u teškoj industriji u New Yorku. U svojim memoarima ona piše o odrastanju u Torontu s majkom koja je pisala rubrike s hranom i vodila sate kuhanja u svom prigradskom domu. Simmons-ovo probno pokušavanje u nekim od najtežih vrhunskih kuhinja u New Yorku čini odlično štivo.


10 najboljih kulinarskih memoara

Kad sam pisala o večerama koje sam imala sa starijim prijateljem Edwardom, rano sam odlučila da ne unosim nikakve recepte. Edward, uspješan kuhar, rijetko je zapisivao upute za, recimo, svoje kamenice Rockefellera ili piletinu paillard. Iako je hrana koju smo jeli svakako bila važna, knjiga nije trebala biti kuharica, već memoari o prirodi prijateljstva.

U ovoj potrazi, inspirirala me bogata literatura o kulinarstvu u kojoj je hrana središnji motiv, ali je spojena pričom o njenoj pripremi i zajedništvom koje dolazi iz dijeljenja obroka. Toliko pisaca - od MFK Fisher -a, koji je lirski pisao o užicima samog objedovanja, do njujorške kuharice Gabrielle Hamilton, koja je dokumentirala svoj odgoj u mukama kroz porodične obroke - koriste hranu kao katalizator sjećanja i ljubavne nostalgije.

Iako sam još uvijek veliki obožavatelj dobre knjige recepata - bilo čega što su napisali Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi i Julia Child - priče u lijepo prevedenim memoarima ostaju mi ​​duže nego bilo koji recept. To je Nigel Slater koji koristi spaljeni tost kao metaforu za majčinu ljubav, a Anne Fadiman se opija kao tinejdžerka kada pokušava udovoljiti ocu opsjednutom vinom. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


Top 10 culinary memoirs

W hen I was writing about the dinners I had with my elderly friend Edward, I made a decision early on not to include any recipes. Edward, an accomplished cook, rarely wrote down any instructions for, say, his oysters Rockefeller or chicken paillard. While the food we ate was certainly important, the book was not meant to be a cookbook, but instead a memoir about the nature of friendship.

In this pursuit, I was inspired by a rich literature of culinary writing in which food is a central motif, but is held together by the story of its preparation and the fellowship that comes from sharing a meal. So many writers – from MFK Fisher, who wrote lyrically about the pleasures of dining alone, to New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, who documented her hardscrabble upbringing through family meals – use food as a catalyst for memories and loving nostalgia.

While I’m still a big fan of a good recipe book – anything by Jamie Oliver, Yotam Ottolenghi and Julia Child – it’s the stories in beautifully rendered memoirs that stay with me longer than any recipe. It’s Nigel Slater using burnt toast as a metaphor for his mother’s love, and Anne Fadiman getting drunk as a teenager when she tries to please her vintage-wine-obsessed father. Below, are what I consider some of the best culinary memoirs.

1. The Wine Lover’s Daughter: A Memoir by Anne Fadiman
Fadiman’s most recent book about her father, the American author and radio personality Clifton Fadiman, is a deftly written memoir – a coming-of-age story written around her father’s oenophilia. He was “a lousy driver and a two-finger typist”, she writes, “but he could open a wine bottle as deftly as any swain ever undressed his lover”.

2. The Gastronomical Me by MFK Fisher
Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher was ahead of her time. After spending “two shaking and making years in my life” with her new husband in Dijon, she returned to California in the early 1940s where she became a serious food writer. The Gastronomical Me recounts some of her very poetic encounters with food. Here was a woman who loved nothing more than dining alone in a restaurant “as if I were a guest of myself, to be treated with infinite courtesy.”

MFK Fisher at home in 1971. Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

3. Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton
Hamilton runs Prune, a jewel of a restaurant in New York’s East Village. She is also a gifted writer who takes you on a journey from her difficult adolescence in rural Pennsylvania to New York’s aptly named neighbourhood Hell’s Kitchen, where she moves after high school before opening her restaurant.

4. Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
The New Yorker writer and Gourmet magazine columnist’s memoir is about the joys of cooking at home. From her tiny Greenwich Village kitchen, she writes about meals shared with friends and family. “I love to eat out, but even more, I love to eat in,” she says. I fell for the ordinary extraordinariness of her stories, the reliance on available resources and implements to create something wonderful. This is what I tried so hard to capture in my own book.

5. Consider the Oyster by MFK Fisher
WH Auden called Fisher “America’s greatest writer”, which is my excuse for choosing a second book by her. It’s easy to see why the poet so admired her, in this slim 1941 volume – an ode to the gastronome’s prize treat. “An oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life,” she begins. Fisher tells you everything you ever wanted to know about this bivalve mollusc and writes brilliantly about such unfamiliar ingredients as Herbsaint.

6. My Life in France by Julia Child, with Alex Prud’homme
A great account of the Childs’ life in Paris after the second world war. Working with her grandnephew Alex Prud’homme, the great chef reminisces about meeting her husband Paul in what was still Ceylon while both were working for the Office of Strategic Services, the precursor to the CIA. When Paul took a job in Paris, Julia immersed herself in French cooking. Her description of eating sole meunière for the first time at a restaurant in Rouen is mouth-watering: “It arrived whole: a large, flat Dover sole that was perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley on top.”

Julia Child in her home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Photograph: Rick Friedman/Corbis via Getty Images

7. Cooking for Mr Latte: A Food Lover’s Courtship With Recipes by Amanda Hesser
The “Mr Latte” of the title is the author’s boyfriend, a writer for the highbrow New Yorker who has rather lowbrow tastes in food. Although affable and intelligent, he ends each exquisite meal they share with the fine-dining faux pas of a latte. First told in instalments for the New York Times where Hesser worked as a food writer, this is as much a love letter to New York and food as it is to the man Hesser ends up marrying.

8. More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin
Since the subject here concerns appetite, I’m going to recommend a second helping of Colwin. I feel a real kinship to her because I share her obsession with what people eat at home. Written the year Colwin died aged just 50, this is a treatise on the importance of the family dinner – no matter who you consider to be family. “We know that without food we would die,” she writes. “Without fellowship life is not worth living.”

9. Talking With My Mouth Full: My Life as a Professional Eater by Gail Simmons
Simmons is a presenter/judge on Bravo’s Top Chef, but she’s also a fellow Canadian who found herself struggling to make it in a tough industry in New York. In this memoir, she writes about growing up in Toronto with a mother who wrote food columns and conducted cooking classes in their suburban home. Simmons’s trial-by-fire in some of the toughest high-end restaurant kitchens in New York City makes for a great read.


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