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Intervju: Restoran iz Charlestona Steve Palmer

Intervju: Restoran iz Charlestona Steve Palmer

Naš saradnik sustiže ugostitelja iz Charlestona

Oak Table u Columbia, S.C. jedan je od restorana The Indigo Road.

Svi putevi vode nazad u Charleston za ugostitelja Stevea Palmera, uspješnog biznismena koji izgleda kao da se sve dotakne pretvara u zlato. Kao upravljački partner za Indigo Road, Steve je bio vodeća sila iza tranzicije Oak Steakhousea, a zatim i koncepcije, razvoja i upravljanja TMacintosh, The Cocktail Club, O-Ku i The Oak Table. On takođe provodi većinu dana nadgledajući njihov najnoviji poduhvat Indaco, koncept pod uticajem Italije koji se ovog ljeta otvara u Upper King Streetu.

Mnogi možda poznaju Stevea iz njegovih svakodnevnih nastupa u jednom od njegovih različitih restorana, ali rijetki znaju priču i začinjenu povijest ovog vrhunskog poduzetnika u oblasti hrane i pića. Daily Meal je sjeo kako bi saznao više o prošlim, sadašnjim i budućim vizijama i inspiracijama ovog vođe:

Dnevni obrok: Već ste mnogo godina dio ugostiteljske industrije u Charlestonu. Kakvi su bili rani dani?
Steve Palmer: Zadirkujem kad kažem da su me svi putevi vodili natrag u Charleston, ali jesu. Prvi put sam se zaljubio u grad kada sam se preselio iz Atlante na College of Charleston. U to vrijeme uragan Hugo je dolazio i odlazio i počeli su se otvarati restorani poput Magnolije. Počeo sam kao server tamo, a zatim sam prešao u Blossom kada se otvorio za pokretanje vinskog programa. U najmanju ruku, naučio sam mnogo toga i oduševio se u ugostiteljskoj zajednici.

Steve je upoznao i Davida LeBoutilliera, konzultanta u restoranu koji je godinama sudjelovao u gotovo svakom značajnom otvaranju u gradu. Njih dvoje su se prisilno pridružili i radili zajedno dugi niz godina. Steve je na kraju slijedio Davida natrag u Atlantu kako bi radio u čuvenom Kanu restoran, a zatim natrag u Charleston na koncept i otvaranje Peninsula Grill -a praćeno Hankovim plodovima mora. Tokom tog vremena Steve je morao da se uhvati u koštac sa dubokom, mračnom zavisnošću.

TDM: Možete li nam reći nešto o tom dijelu svog života i kako je on danas utjecao na vas?
SP: Bio sam na mračnom mjestu radeći ono što je zaista bila norma, ali na nezdrav način. Zaslužan sam za Hanka Hollidaya (vlasnika kompanije Holliday Company) koji mi je dao dvije mogućnosti dok sam radio u Peninsula Grill-idi danas na rehabilitaciju ili se oprosti od posla. Izabrao sam rehabilitaciju, a ostalo je istorija. Hank i taj ultimatum spasili su mi život i od tada sam trezan.

Steve je bio nervozan zbog oporavljenog alkoholičara koji bi učinio da radi u industriji, ali zapravo je bilo lakše nego što je očekivao, a sada služi kao izlaz s drugima sa sličnim problemima.

Napustivši opet Charleston, preselio se na Floridu da radi za Ginn Company i dizajnirao i otvorio sve restorane i barove za preko 100 miliona dolara razvojnih projekata, uključujući barove, golf klubove, hotele i drugo.


Charleston Wine + Food ugostiće Stevea Palmera i Kat Kinsman u Test Kitchen -u

Charleston Wine + Food ugostit će Stevea Palmera, upravnog partnera i osnivača The Indigo Road Hospitality Group, i predsjednika Uprave Charleston Wine + Food, za raspravu o njegovoj knjizi, Reci Grace: Kako mi je restoranska industrija spasila život, u utorak, 21. januara.

Na ovom posebnom događaju, Kat Kinsman, viša urednica časopisa Hrana i vino, intervjuirat će Palmera o njegovoj knjizi, rastućem carstvu restorana i o tome što je potrebno da se prevlada ovisnost i ostane trezan u industriji s najvećom stopom zloupotrebe alkohola i droga.

Događaj će se održati u Charleston Wine + Food Test Kitchen u 635 Rutledge Avenue, Suite 101, u centru Charlestona.


Thierry Rautureau

Thierry Rautureau, nadimak The Chef In The Hat, izvršni je kuhar i vlasnik restorana, Loulay Kitchen and Bar i Luc Bistro u Seattleu, Washington.

Šegrtovao je u Anjouu u Francuskoj, a sa dvadeset se preselio u Sjedinjene Države da radi u nekoliko finih restorana. Postao je šef kuhinje i vlasnik Rover's restorana 1987. godine, što mu je pomoglo da postane jedan od najprepoznatljivijih kuhara u Sijetlu.

Rautureau je osvojio razne nagrade, uključujući nagradu James Beard za najboljeg kuhara na sjeverozapadu Pacifika 1998. godine, a francuska vlada ga je nagradila Chevalier de l'Ordre Du Mérite Agricole.

Kuhao je za takve poznate ličnosti kao što su Hillary Clinton, Francis Ford Coppola, Jackson Browne i Julia Child.

Thierry Rautureau dolazi iz grada Saint Hilaire de Loulay u francuskoj regiji Muscadet. Njegovi roditelji bili su poljoprivrednici u maloj poljoprivrednoj zajednici u kojoj su krave i pilići bili brojniji. Porodica je kuhala samo ono što je uzgojila, čime je osigurala isključivo sezonsku ishranu. Kao najstarije dijete, Rautureau se zadužio za pripremu večere i kao takav se vrlo brzo upoznao sa svježim domaćim sastojcima u mladosti.

Sa četrnaest godina Rautureau je započeo kuharski staž u Anjouu u Francuskoj, a sa šesnaest je otišao na regionalnu turneju po Francuskoj i trenirao u gradovima Le Mont Saint Michel u Normandiji, Chamonix u francuskim Alpima i Hendaye u Pays Basque. Sa dvadeset godina, nakon šest godina tradicionalne francuske obuke, Rautureau se uputio prema Sjedinjenim Državama i odnio svoje profesionalno iskustvo u La Fontaine sa Jean Claude Poilevey -om u Chicagu.

Nakon tri godine u Chicagu, Rautureau se preselio u Los Angeles gdje je radio u Regency Clubu s Joachimom Splichalom, a zatim Bistro Sedme ulice s Laurentom Queniouxom.

Rautureau je oženjen Kathleen Encell-Rautureau, dizajnericom cvijeća koja također radi aranžmane za restorane. Ona je takođe bila podsticaj za nadimak šefa kuhinje. Kathy je bila ta koja je Rautureauu poklonila Fedoru za Božić, koju je nosio gotovo neprestano. Jedne večeri Rautureau je ušao u trpezariju kod Rovera kako bi razgovarao sa gostom bez skidanja šešira. Gost je uzviknuo: "Gledajte, to je kuhar u šeširu!"

Dok je posjećivao Seattle 1987. godine, Rautureau je večerao u Roveru i otkrio da je restoran na prodaju. Odlučio je kupiti restoran kako bi mogao izraziti svoju kulinarsku kreativnost kao izvršni kuhar i vlasnik dok uživa na sjeverozapadu Pacifika.

Rautureau kaže za svoju filozofiju kuhanja: "počinje svježinom i nastavlja pažljivim tretiranjem svih sastojaka." On identificira kuhinju u Roveru kao „sjeverozapadnu suvremenu sa francuskim naglaskom“. Njegova kuhinja također sadrži mediteranski prizvuk i razne azijske elemente. Sveukupno, njegova kuhinja je usklađena s filozofijom "hrana kao umjetnost". Rover je zatvorio svoja vrata 23. juna 2013. godine i do danas je Chef četiri puta godišnje domaćin ekskluzivnih intimnih pop-up Roverovih večera. Brzo se rezerviraju i iskustvo je koje ne smijete propustiti.

Rautureau je 2010. otvorio Luc, ležerni francusko-američki kafić i bar nazvan po njegovom pokojnom ocu Lucu Rautureauu. Budući da je prvenstveno lokalna, sezonska i održiva, Lucina hrana je pod velikim utjecajem francuske udobne hrane koju je Rautureau odrastao jedući na farmi svojih roditelja.

Godine 2013. šef kuhinje Thierry Rautureau otvorio je Loulay Kitchen & amp Bar u srcu centra Seattlea. Nazvan po rodnom gradu Saint Hilaire de Loulay u Francuskoj, kuvara Thierryja Rautureaua, Loulay pruža ambijent i elegantan dekor koji se od kuhara očekivao u restoranima sa šeširima, a istovremeno pruža skromne ukuse domaće kuhane francuske kuhinje. Smješten u dnu hotela Sheraton u epicentru trgovačke četvrti u centru Sijetla, Loulay nudi ukusnu francusku kuhinju sa prskanjem sjeverozapada Pacifika. Na jelovniku se nalaze jela sa savršenom ravnotežom utješnih okusa inspirisana stolom na farmi Rautureau i izvrsnim, svježim plodovima mora koje samo sjeverozapadni Pacifik može ponuditi, poput zapečenog albakora posluženog uz fondue od poriluka, pire od korijena čička i sok od jabukovače .

Od 2003. do 2010. Rautureau je bio suvoditelj radio emisije „Seattle Kitchen“ sa kolegom kuharom Tomom Douglasom na KIRO 97.3FM. Dva kuhara obavili su intervjue s ljudima iz svijeta hrane, prepričali recepte, dali vino vina sedmicu i razgovarali o hrani u vijestima.

2012. Rautureau i Douglas vratili su se na KIRO Radio sa "Seattle Kitchen", slušali subotom u 14:00 i nedjeljom u 10:00 na 97,3 FM u Seattleu. Nakon nekoliko mjeseci uspješnosti gledanosti, emisija je produžena na dva sata i nastavlja se snimati sedmično.

Na televiziji, Rautureau je predstavljen u emisijama "Dining Around" i "Ready, Set, Cook!", "Simply Ming" Ming Tsai, "French Fest" serije PBS i Discovery Channel "Great Chefs from the Great". Gradovi. "Rautureau je također bio sudija slavnih kuhara za PBS seriju" MasterChef USA. "

Rautureau je najpoznatiji televizijski nastup kao takmičar u drugoj sezoni Bravo reality serije Top Chef Masters. Rautureau se takmičio protiv Monice Pope (T'afia), Carmen González (šef kuhinje), David Burke (David Burke Townhouse) i konačnog pobjednika sezone, Marcusa Samuelssona (Crveni pijetao, Aquavit) u drugoj epizodi pod nazivom "Najbolji kuhar" Masters sezona 2: To je moja zabava. " Izazov za kuhare bio je kuhanje obroka inspirisanog soulom za rođendansku zabavu glumca Mekhi Phifera. González i Samuelsson su napredovali, dok su Pope, Rautureau i Burke eliminirani.

2012. Rautureau se vratio kao takmičar četvrte sezone Top Chef Masters. Prešao je u peti krug pre nego što je eliminisan.

U julu 2013. godine, šef kuhinje Rautureau učestvovao je u stvaranju reality serije YouTube, Kitchen Circus. Tri domaća kuvara prave jedno jelo za 45 večera. Šef kuhinje Thierry Rautureau vodi takmičare od kuhanja do usluge. Hoće li Angel, Siri ili Beth napraviti omiljeni kurs večere? Poznati gosti su: Tom Douglas (restoran u Seattleu), Steve Scher (voditelj NPR radija), Marty Riemer (radio domaćin). Serija je imala ukupno 4 epizode završene finalom.

TV programski kanal KCTS9 napravio je intervju iza scene sa šefom kuhinje Thierryjem Rautureauom koji je objavljen 3. novembra 2014.

Rautureau je bio član Odbora direktora za Food Lifeline, neprofitnu organizaciju zapadnog Washingtona koja opskrbljuje hranu 675.000 ljudi putem banaka hrane, programa toplih obroka, skloništa i još mnogo toga. Rautureau takođe učestvuje u raznim drugim društvenim i dobrotvornim događajima i prikupljanju sredstava, poput otvaranja Dale Turner YMCA u Shoreline, WA. On je također u odboru "Visit Seattle i" L'alliance Francaise ".

On služi kao svečani majstor na mnogim događajima, uključujući, ali ne ograničavajući se na Bite Cooks Seattle i Taste of Tacoma. Thierryjevo učešće u njegovoj zajednici nije ništa drugo do nevjerovatno.

Proširio je svoju restoransku djelatnost na liniju mirisa inspirisanu francuskim sapunom u Loulayu. Šef kuhinje Thierry Rautureau krenuo je u stvaranje jednog od najluksuznijih, opojnih, romantičnih mirisa stoljeća, koristeći umjetnost i iskustvo koje ima kao francuski kuhar svjetske klase. Zajedno sa francuskim obučenim parfimerom Molly Ray oni su ručno izradili recept koji će nadmašiti vrijeme. Veza između naših iskustava s gozbom i mirisom jednako je povezana sa sjećanjem. I hrana i miris pomažu nam da se sjetimo ko smo.


Restorator Steve Palmer dijeli borbu s trezvenošću u novim memoarima

Steve Palmer je uspješan čovjek. On je upravni partner i osnivač Indigo Road Hospitality Group, koja upravlja s desetak restorana u šest gradova, uključujući Oak Steakhouse, O-Ku Sushi, Colletta, Donetto, Tiny Lou's i Sukoshi u Atlanti.

Ali, Palmer će vam prvi reći da ima sreće samo što je živ.

Ovisnost o drogama i alkoholu počela je u njegovoj kući u Chambleeu dok još nije bio tinejdžer, što je najvjerojatnije izazvano traumatičnom smrću njegovog usvojitelja. Ovisnost mu je desetljećima trošila život. To je dovelo do otuđenja od njegove porodice, beskućništva, propalog braka. Radeći u restoranima, lako je prehranio svoju potrebu za pićem i drogom-brinući se o patronima, a pritom dopuštajući patnji vlastitoj dobrobiti.

Zahvaljujući intervenciji njegovih kolega iz restorana, kao i vlastitim naporima u oporavku, Palmer je uspješna priča i živ je ispričati priču.

To je otrežnjujuća priča koju domaći Atlantan prepričava u svojim novoobjavljenim memoarima "Reci Grace: Kako mi je restoran poslužio kao spasio život" (ForbesBooks, 24,99 USD). Priča je to koju Palmer, sada 50 -godišnjak i 18 -godišnjak trijezan, priča jer ne želi da se nekome desi ono što mu se dogodilo.

Prema Nacionalnom istraživanju o upotrebi i zdravlju droga, koristeći podatke od 2008. do 2012. godine, radnici u industriji hrane i uslužnoj industriji imali su najveću stopu upotrebe ilegalnih droga (19,1%) među svim kategorijama industrije, a drugu najveću stopu teških konzumiranje alkohola (15,9%).

"Mi se doslovno ubijamo alkoholom i drogama", piše Palmer u "Say Grace".

Nažalost, Palmer je prekasno spasio jednog od svojih zaposlenika, Ben Murraya, čija je borba s alkoholom završila njegovom smrću, samog u hotelu u Južnoj Karolini. Tragedija talentiranog kuhara navela je Palmera da osnuje Benove prijatelje, grupu za podršku radnicima u industriji hrane i pića koji se bore sa zloupotrebom supstanci i ovisnošću.

Osnovani 2016. godine, sa poglavljima u Čarlstonu i Atlanti, Benovi prijatelji nastavljaju da se šire na gradove širom zemlje, a do početka februara brojiće 16 poglavlja. (Poglavlje o Atlanti sastaje se u podne ponedjeljkom i četvrtkom u O-Ku Sushiju u zapadnom Midtownu. Za detalje posjetite bensfriendshope.com.)

"Predugo se naša industrija pridržavala opasnog koda šutnje", piše Palmer u "Say Grace". “Industrija normalizira pijenje i korištenje droga kao način da se nosi sa stresom zbog rada u industriji. Kodeks nas sprječava da dovedemo u pitanje odnos saradnika prema alkoholu i drogama ... Sretan sam što mogu reći da se to polako konačno mijenja. ”

“Ovisnost je uvijek bila slon u sobi. Srećom, industrija vodi razgovor ”, rekao je Palmer dok smo razgovarali u salonu u hotelu Tiny Lou’s u hotelu Clermont (čiji je estragon-limeta bez alkohola njegovo piće). "Niko ne voli da vodi neprijatan razgovor, ali mislim da ih moramo imati više."

Razgovarajući o temi ovisnosti s nekim za koga sumnjate da ima problema s drogama i alkoholom, rekao je, „moglo bi posaditi sjeme. Najgore što možemo učiniti je ne reći ništa. ”

Kad je Palmer konačno izašao na rehabilitaciju i krenuo na ono što je postalo trajan put oporavka, jedan od njegovih najvećih strahova bio je da ne može imati karijeru u restoranskoj industriji bez pića. „Na kraju sam shvatio da odustajanje od alkohola ne mora značiti i napuštanje moje zajednice. Moguće je izaći s kolegama i ne piti ”, piše on u knjizi. „Alkohol i drugarstvo nisu jedno te isto. Možete imati jedno bez drugog. ”

"To vidim u našoj industriji svakog januara: kuhari kažu:" Neću piti ovaj mjesec ", rekao mi je Palmer. Osim toga, napomenuo je, višemjesečna pauza od pića, poznata kao Suhi januar, od tada se pretvorila u izbor načina života poznat kao "trezveno znatiželjan" ili "ponekad trijezan". Barski programi odgovaraju na povećanu potražnju za smišljenim bezalkoholnim napitcima.

U prvim danima Palmerovog oporavka sjedenje za šankom i pijuckanje nečega osim pića nije bilo ni približno prihvaćeno kao sada.

"Ljudi nisu znali šta da kažu", prisjetio se Palmer. „Najgore što možete učiniti nekome ko ne pije je reći:‘ Smeta li vam ovo što pijem? ’Ponašajte se normalno. Budi svoj. Dobrodošli nas za stol i nemojte praviti veliku brigu oko činjenice da ne pijemo. ”

Dok Palmer nastavlja da se zalaže za pozitivne kulturne promjene u industriji u koju se zaljubio, ove jeseni ušao je u novo poglavlje svog ličnog života kada se oženio suprugom Shelby i postao očuh njenoj devetogodišnjoj kćerki Madison. To je poglavlje koje nije mogao zamisliti prije 34 godine, kada je živio na ulicama Atlante i spavao u napuštenoj kući. Ta stara utočišta iz njegovih najmračnijih dana vide se u novom svjetlu s visine u njegovom stanu u Midtownu.

"To je takva suprotnost", rekao je Palmer o tome gdje ga je životni put odveo.

Kako piše u svojoj knjizi, "Mogu hodati stazama koje se prije nisu činile zamislivim."


Zatvaranje restorana može izazvati recidive u industriji jedinstveno sklonoj ovisnosti

Sam Diminich, izvršni kuhar u Upstreamu u SouthParku, ko-je voditelj poglavlja Charlotte grupe Ben ’s Friends, grupe za podršku ovisnicima. Fotografija Peter Taylor

Napomena urednika: Ova priča je svima dostupna za čitanje kao javni servis. Podijelite ovu priču radi širenja svijesti.

Hlače od karoserije i flanelska košulja. Odjeća visi u ormaru Sama Diminicha kao podsjetnik na vrijeme kada su ti predmeti bili gotovo sve što je imao. Njegova mlađa sestra odvela ga je da kupi odjeću u Goodwill -u na putu za rehabilitaciju, nakon što je Diminich toliko pao u ovisnost da je godinu dana bio beskućnik na ulicama Charlotte. Bio je to barem njegov deseti pokušaj otrežnjenja, ali ovaj put se osjetio drugačije. Znao je da mu je ostalo još malo prilika da promijeni svoj život. Ovoga puta, 16. novembra 2014. godine, on je to i učinio. Diminch, sada izvršni kuhar u Upstreamu u SouthParku, od tada je bio trijezan - a pomagao je i drugima u postizanju trezvenosti.

Sada, on i drugi mentori strahuju da je put do održavanja trezvenosti postao mnogo teži za one u restoranskoj industriji koji su izgubili posao i sami su kod kuće.

Ovisnost je posebno rasprostranjena u ovoj industriji, kaže Rita Clyburn, certificirana savjetnica za zloupotrebu supstanci koja radi s oporavljenim ovisnicima u neprofitnom restoranu Community Matters Café u Šarlotskoj misiji kao klinički direktor studentske službe. Za nekoga u ranom oporavku u restoranskoj industriji, ona procjenjuje da je stopa uspješnosti trezvenosti oko 30 posto. Ovi radnici suočavaju se s jedinstvenom preprekom: stalno ih podsjećaju na to kako je bilo piti.

“On što mozak radi je prisjećajući se onih dobrih vremena i vidjeti ljude u restoranu koji jedu hranu, piju i smiju se, a koji izgledaju kao da se dobro zabavljaju - to je ono u što se mozak uhvati , ” Clyburn kaže. “Oni ’d moraju doslovno natjerati svoj mozak da se sjeti kraja prije nego što su započeli liječenje ili oporavak, bez obzira na njihovu priču, kako se ne bi ponovili. ... ali za većinu u ranom oporavku, oni ne poduzimaju ništa, pa počinju maštati i zabavljati dobra vremena. I opet piju. ”

Diminič, čiju je porodicu opustošio alkoholizam, prepoznaje još jedan faktor koji otežava oporavak u ugostiteljstvu: mentalitet "napornog rada, naporne igre". Odrastajući u porodičnom restoranu#8217, sjeća se da je tokom smjena pio Coors Light i koristio alkohol kao mehanizam za suočavanje.

“Znaš, tada misliš da si#8217 nepobjediv, da#8217re kontroliraš,#kaže. “ Malo po malo, postoji#nevidljiva linija koju prelazite. I prešao sam ga u vrlo ranoj dobi. ”

Najvažniji resurs u održavanju trezvenosti, kaže Diminich, je sistem podrške. Međutim, uz naredbe o boravku kod kuće i socijalno distanciranje, mnogi u oporavku ostaju bez lakog pristupa svojim grupama za podršku. Ben ’s Friends, grupa za podršku onima u restoranskoj industriji koji se bore protiv zavisnosti, prešla je sa sedmičnih ličnih sastanaka na dnevne sastanke na Zoomu. Restoran Steve Palmer jedan je od osnivača kompanije Ben ’s Friends. Vlasnik O-Ku-a, Oak Steakhouse-a, Sukoshi-a i Indaco-a sam se borio sa zavisnošću, te je pomogao pokretanje neprofitne organizacije kako bi pružio grupu za podršku specifičnu za borbe sa kojima se suočavaju zaposleni u restoranskoj industriji. Budući da je njihova industrija prva pogođena, a vjerojatno i najteže pogođena posljedicama pandemije koronavirusa, članovi Benovih prijatelja uvelike se oslanjaju na grupu za podršku. Ben ’s Friends nedavno je dodao 23 sata sastanci nekoliko noći sedmično.

Steve Palmer, desno, sa suosnivačem Benovih prijatelja Mickeyjem Bakstom. Fotografija ljubaznošću

“To je bilo posebno teško, jer je jedan od razloga zašto radite u restoranu to što volite biti u blizini ljudi, volite služiti ljudima i sviđa vam se osjećaj zajedništva i povezanosti koji samo restoran može donijeti, &# 8221 kaže. “To ’ je potpuno nestalo. ”

O-Ku je domaćin tjednih sastanaka poglavlja Charlottea#8217. Bez njih, Palmer se boji da će se mnogi ljudi suočiti s onim što naziva neprijateljem ovisnosti i oporavkom: izolacijom.

“Mislim da bi vam većina ovisnika i alkoholičara, uključujući i mene, na kraju naših ovisnosti rekla da smo bili sami ", kaže Palmer. “Pili smo sami. Drogirali smo se sami. I tako je#8217 vrlo zastrašujuće vrijeme. ”

Palmer vjeruje da će izolacija, uz iznenadni odmak od visoko društvene svakodnevne rutine, uzrokovati da recidiv postane istaknuto pitanje kako se pandemija bude produžavala.

Diminich, koji je ko-vođa poglavlja Charlotteove knjige Ben's#Friends, ponavlja tu zabrinutost.

“Srce mi se gasi u svakom pogledu, "#Diminich kaže. Gotovo je emocionalno samo pomisliti na bilo koga u ranoj treznosti koji treba neku vrstu strukture s porodicom, prijateljima, na radnom mjestu i svugdje između. Sada, mi u osnovi svima govorimo, ‘Sve što smo vas naučili, sve što znate, sve ove alate koje imate - bilo da se radi o sastancima, druženjima, kafi, zajedničkim večerama - to više ne možete. ’ 8221

Izolacija, objašnjava, može uzrokovati da ovisnici počnu vjerovati u užasne stvari u koje vjeruju. Prisjeća se da je imao takve misli.

“Počnete vjerovati u svoje nedostatke, u beznađe, ” kaže. “Moj alkoholizam je želio mene samu. I dalje me želi na miru. Nisam imao želju za pićem, ali postoji razlog zašto stalno idem na sastanke i idem na Zoom. To je u osnovi jedina bolest koja će vam ikada reći da nemate bolest. ”

Bez mogućnosti da razgovaraju o osjećajima s nekim tko razumije tu borbu, oni koji se oporavljaju mogu ući u silaznu spiralu koja ih dovodi do ponovnog pijenja.

“Kada sami dođu do sebe, svo to razmišljanje se vraća i sve te negativne stvari po kojima se mogu ili ne moraju definirati, "kaže savjetnica Clyburn. “I da bi izbrisali grešku, piju. Izolacija je jedna od najgorih stvari u koju bi se osoba u oporavku - ljudi općenito, ali definitivno u ranom oporavku - mogla zaglaviti jer će opet piti. ”

Ta zabrinutost tjera Benove prijatelje, kao i anonimne alkoholičare i anonimne narkotike, da pruže što je više moguće podrške na mreži. Diminich kaže da je često telefonirao sa spužvama i ohrabruje svakoga ko se bori da ostane trezan da se prijavi na svoje sastanke. Prisutni dijele kako se osjećaju i nude podršku. Diminich, koji je radio na pronalaženju restorana South Park Upstream prije otpuštanja zbog privremenog zatvaranja restorana, kaže da mu je olakšanje što čuje da i drugi osjećaju slične emocije.

Iako su sastanci prešli na internet, Diminich kaže da su prisutni aktivniji nego ikad - znak da su im potrebni više nego ikad. Palmer, Diminich i drugi u trezvenoj zajednici također su bili aktivniji nego ikad, pokušavajući osigurati da drugi mogu održati taj put.

“Naš zajednički nazivnik je da smo u ugostiteljskoj industriji, a ugostiteljska industrija je mrtva u brizi o ljudima, kaže#8221 Diminich. “Ova nam je bila idealna prilika da provedemo sat vremena zajedno kako bismo se brinuli jedni o drugima. ” —Kristen Wile

KAKO POMOĆI

Ako postoji neko za koga mislite da se može boriti, pokušajte biti uz njega što je više moguće. “Ostanite povezani i dođite jedno do drugog, provjerite jedno drugo, razgovarajte o tome šta osjećate ”, kaže Clyburn. “Najvažnija stvar je da razgovarate o tome šta osjećate kroz ovo. ” Diminich kaže da pitate ponovo kad neko kaže da je "dobro ili dobro", i istražite malo dublje kako biste im dali priliku da otvori o tome kako se osjećaju.

KAKO POMOĆI

Pridružite se sastanku prijatelja Ben ’s ili se obratite Samu Diminichu na Facebooku. Steve Palmer nudi ovaj savjet: “Proći ćemo kroz ovo. Možete ostati trezni kroz ovo. Niko od nas nikada ranije nije prošao kroz ovo, ali mnogi od nas su ostali trezni kroz druge vrste kriza. I istina je, ne morate ovo piti. ”


Moćni hrast i njegov izvrsni šniclni štih

Negdje u istoriji američke odreske prestale su biti tako velike. Ono što je nekad bilo neusporedivo iskustvo zamijenjeno je, reći ćemo, nečim manjim. Danas je nadimak “steakhouse” povezan s bilo kojim restoranom ili lancem restorana koji poslužuje biftek i povrće - bez obzira na razinu kvalitete.

No, ako pogledate dovoljno blizu, vidjet ćete da još postoji nekoliko ustanova koje se trude da održe veliku tradiciju odreska.

Kada je 2009. godine restorater iz Južne Karoline Steve Palmer iz grupe Indigo Road Restaurant Group preuzeo dužnost originalnog Oak Steakhousea u Broad Streetu u centru Charlestona 2009., njegov fokus je bio na uspostavljanju standarda izvrsnosti koji nemaju para u industriji.

Ne bi bilo pravedno bilo koji meso i povrće. To bi bili najbolji sastojci koje je mogao nabaviti, a pripremio ih je jedan od najboljih kuhara u zemlji.

A danas se upravo to događa u originalnom Oak -u, kao i njegovim sestrinskim odrescima u Atlanti i Nashvilleu.

Izvršni kuhar/partner Jeremiah Bacon, višestruki finalista nagrade James Beard, stavio je svoj pečat na jelovnik u Oaku otkako se pridružio Palmeru i IRG-u, a rezultati govore sami za sebe.

"Rustikalna elegancija je ono što igra veliku ulogu u našem pristupu", kaže Bacon, koji je svoje kulinarske zube prerezao pod legendarnim Thomasom Kellerom i Ericom Ripertom u kuhinjama u Per Se i Le Bernardin. “Naš fokus je na hrani, dosljednosti i zaista ulasku u neke od onih aspekata usluge u starom svijetu.”

Kao i kod svakog dobrog odreska, zvijezda emisije je govedina. Oakov meni obiluje isprobanim i istinskim klasicima odreska, ali i nizom drugih opcija.

"Igramo se s mnogo različitih rezova-velikim porterhausima i tomahawkovima i fileima od kostiju-stvari koje ga čine zanimljivim", kaže Bacon. “Ali radimo i mnogo klasike. Radimo cvrtje od tanjura sa našom trakom i ribom koje se poslužuje s lukom na žaru na pladnju s maslacem od ružmarina. To jako lijepo miriše dok ga prolazite kroz blagovaonicu. ”

U svojim ranim danima, Bacon i Palmer rutinski su pozivali dobavljače u svoj restoran na slijepo kušanje kako bi bili sigurni da će ono što je izašlo iz njihove kuhinje biti nešto najbolje što su njihovi kupci ikada probali.

Danas slijepo kušanje nije toliko potrebno. Dvojac je promijenio igru ​​tako što je nabavio suho odležale, Sertifikovano goveđe meso Angus ® brend Prime steak od legendarnog mesara iz New Yorka DeBragga & amp Spitler. DeBragga, koji dobavlja govedinu u mnogim vrhunskim restoranima u New Yorku, svoju je reputaciju stekao na suho odležanoj govedini, oslanjajući se na orašaste, zemljane okuse koji proizlaze iz dobro mramornog, odležanog goveđeg mesa.

“Ranije smo puno češće radili slijepe degustacije, ali sada nam je tako ugodno Sertifikovano goveđe meso Angus ® jeste “, kaže Bacon. „Pitanje koje si sada postavljamo je šta je to što je vrijedno osporavanja? Zaista, da postoji nešto bolje, mi bismo to iskoristili. Ali biramo ove odreske jer su oni najbolja stvar na svijetu. ”

Sviđa vam se ovaj post? Onda pokažite svojim prijateljima!

Račun s tamnom stranom ugostiteljske industrije

Katy McLaughlin

Kad se televizijska ličnost i bivši kuhar Anthony Bourdain ubio u lipnju, Charles Ford, generalni direktor luksuznog restorana u Chicagu, vijest je shvatio kao lični poziv na akciju: Više neće šutjeti o svoja tri pokušaja samoubojstva.

"Ne želim to više skrivati", kaže gospodin Ford, 31, koji kaže da je u tri navrata prerezao zglobove u razdoblju od kraja 2015. do proljeća 2016. Radnici sa suicidalnim impulsima i drugim emocionalnim krizama često kriju svoju bol u svojoj profesiji , Kaže gospodin Ford. "Moramo učiniti sve što možemo da ovo promijenimo, a prvi korak je izgovoriti to naglas."

Gospodin Ford je jedan od mnogih za koje je samoubistvo gospodina Bourdaina računalo s tamnom stranom restorana vrijednog 800 milijardi dolara. Upućeni su već odavno privatno zabrinuti zbog načina života ljudi koji rade u ugostiteljskoj industriji, koja ima jednu od najvećih stopa zloupotrebe nedozvoljenih droga i alkoholizma i tradiciju maskiranja borbi za mentalno zdravlje. Nekoliko grupa počelo je istraživati ​​zašto preduzeće ima ove probleme i šta bi se moglo učiniti po tom pitanju. Smrt gospodina Bourdaina - idola za mnoge u svijetu kulinarstva - dala je ovim naporima veću hitnost.

Preko književne menadžerice gospodina Bourdaina, Kimberly Witherspoon, porodica pokojnog kuhara odbila je komentirati ovaj članak.

Brutalna priroda restoransko-kuhinjske kulture dio je problema, kažu mnogi u industriji. Fizička i emocionalna izdržljivost su cijenjene, a konvencije na radnom mjestu, poput 40-satnih radnih tjedana, pauza i ljubaznosti, mogu biti strani pojmovi. U isto vrijeme, mladi ljudi koji su odrasli gledajući "Vrhunskog kuhara" i Food Network sada ulaze u profesiju s visokim očekivanjima-i opterećenjima dugovima-nekad rijetkim na ovom polju uglavnom plavih ovratnika.


Indigo Road i#8217s Steve Palmer želi pomoći radnicima restorana u Atlanti u borbi protiv zloupotrebe opojnih droga

Steve Palmer posjeduje više od petnaest barova i restorana u Sjevernoj Karolini, Južnoj Karolini, Džordžiji i Tennesseeju.

Fotografija Andrew Stephen Cebulka

Steve Palmer iz grupe Indigo Road Restaurant Group, rodom iz Atlante, posjeduje petnaest barova i restorana u Sjevernoj Karolini, Južnoj Karolini, Tennesseeju i Georgiji-uključujući Oak Steakhouse iz Atlante, Colletta i O-Ku. Palmer kaže da je njegovo najvažnije djelo, međutim, za Benove prijatelje.

The 501(c)(3) is named for chef Ben Murray, Palmer’s friend and colleague who battled addiction and depression. Murray ultimately committed suicide last year, and Palmer founded Ben’s Friends soon after.

“At its core, it’s a group of people who have a common goal of trying to stay sober,” says Palmer, who has himself been in recovery for 15 years. The group meets every Sunday at an old cigar warehouse in Charleston. “It’s a safe space to talk.”

Though the organization is relatively new, Palmer receives calls daily from people all over the country who either want to join or start groups in their own cities. Chef Scott Crawford offered to help launch a Raleigh chapter this month, and Palmer, who is about to open a Tuscan-style Italian restaurant called Donetto in the Westside’s Stockyards development, hopes to create a chapter in Atlanta, too.

Can you share a little but about your own history with alcoholism?
I used to go out and do 20 shots and a line of cocaine and then be at work the next day. That is seriously screwed up.

The final straw: I was running a restaurant in Charleston called Peninsula Grill. I was doing an enormous amount of cocaine, and I had gotten to the point where I was physically addicted to alcohol, like I had to drink just so I could shave, because my hands were shaking otherwise. I physically could not stop drinking, even though I wanted to.

That’s the cruelest thing about alcoholism: It’s the only disease that tells you you don’t have a disease. Cancer patients aren’t walking around saying, “I don’t have cancer.” But alcoholics certainly walk around saying they’re not sick.

Anyway, I went to work and I was throwing up. I was having hallucinations. I was lying on the floor and—I’ll never forget that moment as long as I live—the owner of the restaurant came to me and said, “So you have a choice today. You can either go to rehab, or you can go clean out your office. We have a bed ready for you, but you need to get up, go home, pack, and go right now. What’s your decision?” Every fiber of my being was like “Okay, there’s a bar right around the corner. I’m going to go do a shot. I do not want to deal with this situation. Go ’eff yourself.” But for whatever reason, I said, “Okay, I’ll do it.”

Do you still struggle with it?
Every once in a while I still want to have a drink, but I’m under no illusion that I could handle it. Because I wouldn’t have just one drink you wouldn’t see me for four or five days. I’d go buy a big bag of coke and lock myself in a room.

So there are moments when I want an escape and when I think it would be really nice to have a glass of wine, but all that really tells me is that I still have a disease and I’m not cured.

Why did you start Ben’s Friends?
Sadly, my friend Ben killing himself spurred me into action, but I’m certainly not the only one who’s seeing that people in our industry are not okay. I mean, Angus [Brown] was 34 years old. If we’re evolved human beings, we have a responsibility to care for each other, right?

When I got sober, I didn’t know anybody else sober in the [restaurant] business. I remember going to a restaurant opening in Charleston after having been out of rehab for two weeks. Everybody I had been partying with [before I got sober] was there, and it was like the needle scratched across the record when I walked in. Nobody was trying to be unkind, they just didn’t know what to say to me. Ben’s Friends provides a place to talk openly and honestly.

[In the restaurant industry, the mentality has always been] “Well, you imati to drink to be in this business. You go to work, the adrenaline starts flying . . . how can I ne do a bunch of shots to come down from serving 200 people in one night?”

[And the problem isn’t just alcohol.] This isn’t exclusive to the restaurant business, but opiates have made this massive comeback. I’m meeting 24-year-old kids in AA meetings who grew up doing heroin in the suburbs. Pills are also a huge problem. There was a line cook who started coming to Ben’s Friends and she relapsed and died. We went out into neighborhoods looking for her. She was found in her car. She was 27 years old.

Is it the pressure of working in a the professional kitchen that makes substance abuse common in the restaurant industry? Or is it something about the industry culture itself?
I think it’s a little bit of the chicken and the egg, right? Did I find the restaurant business because I was an addicted person and it’s very acceptable? Možda. But I dislike when somebody says, “Well the restaurant business made me an addict.” I love the restaurant business—I love taking care of people—and I’ve been in it for 30 years. The notion that addiction has to come with that? I don’t accept that.

Asheville chef and restaurant owner Katie Button doesn’t serve alcohol at her staff parties. The first year she instituted the no-booze policy, she got some flak, but it’s been going on—successfully—for three years. Have you implemented anything like this at your restaurants?
Three months ago, we went completely alcohol-free—no shift drinks, even. I stood in front of all of our employees across all of our restaurants and said, “Listen, I want the most emotionally, spiritually whole and physically safe environment for you to be in. That includes not drinking.” I thought I was going to get a lot of pushback, but I got zero. Originally I was hyper-sensitive that just because I’m in recovery, I wasn’t going to make that my employees’ problem.

I wasn’t out there preaching the gospel. But now I kind of am.

I also think leading people is about being emotionally centered yourself. Alcohol impedes that. I think our leadership is healthier, and now we’re attracting people who want that kind of environment.

Do you think the industry is becoming more health conscious in general?
Yeah, I think it’s a collective consciousness right now. People are saying, “We love this business, but it’s got to be a more healthy place for us to be.” Meanwhile, there are all these other issues at play: mental health problems, the long hours, the fact that we’re severely understaffed as an industry. Conversations about living wage, work conditions—I think it’s all part of a larger conversation about health and sustainability in the restaurant world.

What scares me, though, is when people start leaving restaurants behind altogether. I’m a restaurant guy. This is what I do. But I’m watching more and more people drift away, saying, “I’m going to stay in the food business, but I just don’t want to be in a restaurant.” Where will that leave us?

Well, what you’re doing—cutting out drinking on the premises, providing a safe space to talk—is not only helping your employees but, one would imagine, it’s also a smart business decision to have healthy people in the kitchen.
Oh, there’s no question. We have five chefs now who are sober, and not only has the quality of food gone up, but also the level of mentorship and leadership in the kitchen. That’s where I see it most: the morale of the kitchen. The turnover is gone. There’s this excitement because they’re not dealing with somebody who’s been on a bender and is emotionally strung out. There’s a chef in Charleston who just took over in the last six months and he’s two years sober. The difference in the quality . . . it’s the best food we’ve ever served there. You walk in and everybody’s smiling, and there’s this air of calm. There’s not that tension and pots flying and people screaming.

Are you going to create an Atlanta chapter?
This is my hometown: I grew up here, I did a lot of my drinking and drugging here, and, honestly, a lot of my life’s most painful moments happened in Atlanta. I would love to be a part of something that helps heal that. I need to find sober people here to partner with—preferably somebody who been sober for two or more years. I’m happy to host it at any one of our restaurants we just need someone to be there every Sunday.

Update 4/17/17: An Atlanta chapter of Ben’s Friends has been created! The group will meet each Sunday at 11 a.m at O-Ku (Westside Ironworks, 1085 Howell Mill Road), starting April 23. Palmer himself will lead the first meetings.


What’s next?

New Orleans chef Donald Link seems an especially fitting guest to talk about how to deal with disasters on the Tuesday edition of Working Lunch. He and his team weathered Hurricane Katrina in 2005 and rebuilt his successful restaurant group to include Pêche Seafood Grill, La Boulangerie and Ristorante Gianna .

Yet, Link said the current crisis is far worse than the Katrina aftermath. “We just laid off 400 people,” he said. The remaining staff is working in the 15,000-square foot facility to produce a menu of best sellers from the restaurants for curb-side pickup, as well as making family meal take-out for the employees who aren’t working.

Like many independent operators, Link is hoping for some relief from the Small Business Administration soon. “We’re financing it all at this point,” he said in a phone interview.


Chef Sean Brock Puts Down the Bourbon and Begins a New Quest

That might not seem terribly remarkable today, in the golden age of recovery. But this was Sean Brock, the Southern culinary revivalist with an arm covered in vegetable tattoos, who had collected vintage bottles of American bourbon like a maniacal museum curator.

Mr. Brock wasn’t the kind of chef who drank during work, but he was often the last man standing at the end of a night saturated with Budweiser and Jägermeister. In some circles, his name had become a verb. After a long stretch on the line, one cook might look at another and say, “Let’s get Brocked.”

All of that came crashing down in January, when the doorbell rang at his home in Nashville. He was packing for yet another commuter flight to Charleston, S.C., where he runs Husk, McCrady’s and Minero. Mr. Brock, 39, thought a package was being delivered. Instead, three of the people he admires most were trembling at the threshold.

“The second I opened the door I knew exactly what was happening,” he said in a recent interview at a cafe here. “We sat down and had us an old-fashioned intervention.”

It was a relief, really. Within a few hours he was flying to the Sonoran Desert to spend six weeks at the Meadows, the Arizona treatment center where Michael Phelps and Tiger Woods have sought help.

By all accounts, he came back a markedly different man from the angry, isolated star chef who more than one person, including Mr. Brock himself, suspected might die young. He had been coping with an autoimmune disease that threatened his eyesight, but he was falling apart emotionally, too.

Image

“I was concerned about killing myself not by my choice, but by being unhealthy and miserable,” he said.

Counselors diagnosed post-traumatic stress disorder, not from a single event but from a pile of them. They told him that the part of his brain that controls behavior and emotion was essentially frozen.

“Freeze is the scariest, darkest place you can imagine,” he said. “The only emotion I knew was anger. I was miserable and angry at the world.”

Today his crazy giggle is back, and he is about 20 pounds lighter. Mr. Brock had never had a lick of personal therapy until he went to the Meadows. Now, he spends a few hours a day in self-care activities like meditation and reiki and is a regular at support groups and therapists’ offices.

He has taken up inner healing, boundary-setting and other bedrock emotional acts of recovery with the same intensity that drove him to raise an Ossabaw Island hog so he could deliver a perfect slice, cured and dressed in sorghum syrup and wild red bay laurel, as part of his $115 tasting menu at McCrady’s.

And he has a new mission. Forget cooking shrimp and grits, he said, using a much stronger verb. “Anybody can do that,” he said. “I have this opportunity in front of me. If I can inspire people to take better care of themselves in this industry, that will be my greatest contribution.”

It’s not just about alcohol, he said. It’s about teaching people in the restaurant business how to ask for help.

“Suffering is suffering,” he said. “It doesn’t matter if you are addicted to porn on the internet or you’re codependent or you’re addicted to gambling or if you’re addicted to ‘The Real Housewives of Atlanta.’ You’re suffering, and that’s what gets us into trouble.”

Then again, Mr. Brock may be still riding what people in recovery call a pink cloud. Friends worry that talking so publicly about his recovery could jeopardize it, but they support him.

“It’s a way for him to be accountable and to do service,” said his girlfriend, the publicist Adi Noe. “I told him instead of being known for bourbon, you could be known for choosing recovery and choosing health.”

Addiction awareness has arrived in waves over the last few decades in the hospitality industry, which has been ranked highest among professions for substance abuse disorders, according to the United States Department of Health and Human Services.

There was a period of sobering-up in the 1990s after the cocaine-driven excesses of the ’80s. Anthony Bourdain’s 2000 book, “Kitchen Confidential,” with its bare-metal descriptions of drug abuse and restaurant life, set off another round of self-examination.

More recently, some notable deaths and a spate of chefs who are singing the virtues of healthy, sober living have given the topic a reboot, this time wrapped in the broader cloak of self-care.

What to Cook Right Now

Sam Sifton has menu suggestions for the coming days. There are thousands of ideas for what to cook waiting for you on New York Times Cooking.

    • Do not miss Yotam Ottolenghi’s incredible soba noodles with ginger broth and crunchy ginger. for fungi is a treat, and it pairs beautifully with fried snapper with Creole sauce.
    • Try Ali Slagle’s salad pizza with white beans, arugula and pickled peppers, inspired by a California Pizza Kitchen classic.
    • Alexa Weibel’s modern take on macaroni salad, enlivened by lemon and herbs, pairs really nicely with oven-fried chicken.
    • A dollop of burrata does the heavy lifting in Sarah Copeland’s simple recipe for spaghetti with garlic-chile oil.

    Kat Kinsman, the food journalist and author of the recent “Hi, Anxiety: Life With a Bad Case of Nerves,” started a website in 2016 called Chefs With Issues, subtitled “for the care and feeding of the people who feed us.” She thought she might get a few hundred responses to an anonymous mental health survey she posted. More than 2,000 people have filled it out.

    As part of that work, Ms. Kinsman helped run a panel discussion on mental health for chefs, their staffs and their relatives at the Atlanta Food & Wine Festival in June. The restaurateurs Scott Crawford and Steve Palmer set up a “chill space” at the festival as part of Ben’s Friends, an addiction support group named after a mutual friend who committed suicide.

    The festival was the first one Mr. Brock had attended sober. He hosted a ham and bourbon seminar with the Kentucky distillers Preston Van Winkle and Drew Kulsveen. Not one of the 60 people who attended asked him why he wasn’t drinking. Later, he went upstairs to the chill space. “It was the safest I’ve ever felt,” he said.

    Over lunch in Atlanta the next day, Mr. Brock said he hoped the intervention was a final piece of punctuation on years of extreme highs and lows.

    He grew up in rural Virginia with a father who worked overtime hauling coal and a mother who read Gourmet magazine. He was 11 when his dad died of a heart attack he watched it happen, something he didn’t even tell Ms. Noe until recently.

    By age 15, he was working in a restaurant. “I found a place to hide in the shadows,” he said. “I found a place where I was safe, I was secure and surrounded by people just like me. I didn’t leave.”

    There is another curveball thrown in Mr. Brock’s story. In January 2014, while holed up in his Nashville apartment nursing a kneecap he had smashed in a fall on the ice, he woke with double vision. His eyelids wouldn’t behave. One would droop while the other would pop open.

    His vision became so bad that he couldn’t drive, and had to bend over to see the food he was cooking. After a year and a half of tests and several brutal eye surgeries, he was given a diagnosis of myasthenia gravis, a rare autoimmune disease that interferes with the way nerves and muscles communicate. At its worst, it can take away the ability to swallow and, eventually, breathe. At best, it might go into remission.

    Managing the symptoms requires rest and a drug cocktail that includes the steroid prednisone. Mr. Brock didn’t rest much. Feeling more creative than he had in a couple of years, he threw himself into remaking McCrady’s as a dual restaurant, with a high-end American tavern on one side and his boutique experimental dining counter on the other.

    With Ms. Noe watching over him, he tried to slow down and drink less. He preached the virtues of rest and gluten-free eating. He said he wanted to become an advocate for research into his disease and for a more balanced approach to restaurant work.

    Mr. Brock told it all to a writer for GQ magazine, hoping for an article about the opening of his new restaurants and the toll that stress can take on a chef. Instead the profile, published last November, was, at least to those around him, an excruciating look at an ego-driven man still drinking, obsessing and lashing out.

    “He had lost his ability to see himself,” said Patty Bundy, a marriage and family therapist in Roanoke, Va. whose daughter, Melany Robinson, is Mr. Brock’s publicist and was one of the architects of his intervention. Ms. Noe, an executive director for Ms. Robinson’s public relations company, confided frequently in Dr. Bundy.

    “The article made it clear he was springing leaks all over the place,” Dr. Bundy said. “There’s nothing that goes well as the ship’s going down.”

    Fights at home became so frequent that neither he nor Ms. Noe could remember what it was like not to be in conflict. She would go to bed and he would rummage around his bourbon collection, drinking and staring at the wall until he could sleep.

    At work, he was moody and demanding. He punched walls. One day, he went to plate a dish and realized he couldn’t make his hand move properly. “I threw the spoon down and panicked,” he said.

    “You get angry, and that anger just builds and builds into rage, and you hurt a lot of people around you,” he said. “You’re just trying to survive. You’re gasping for air.”

    Then the disease started to move to his throat. His vision was becoming so bad that he couldn’t make breakfast. In January, he went to the Smoky Mountains resort Blackberry Farm for a Southern Foodways Alliance meeting. The people who knew him well could see he was in trouble.

    When it was over, he checked into a Nashville hotel just to be alone. Meanwhile, people who saw him at Blackberry Farm called Ms. Robinson. She and Ms. Noe decided it was finally time to act, and with Dr. Bundy’s help, they planned their intervention.

    David Howard, president of the Neighborhood Dining Group, whose portfolio includes Husk, McCrady’s and Minero, was an essential part of the plan. He is Mr. Brock’s business partner but also, after 11 years together, a father figure. He helped clear Mr. Brock’s schedule for 45 days and pay for the trip to the Meadows.

    “In a short period of time, he’s gone from a young guy from a little town in Virginia to a point where he can’t walk down the street in Charleston or New York without someone identifying him,” he said. “That’s a blessing and a burden, and requires you to always be on point. With that comes addiction.”

    Mr. Brock’s rebirth, as he calls it, could help change an industry that has always demanded too much.

    Before he returned to Nashville in March, he made sure that Ms. Noe had moved his precious bourbon collection to the garage. There was so much that she had to spread the work out over a week, being careful not to damage bottles that could command thousands of dollars apiece.

    Mr. Brock sold them all and used some of the cash to buy a black 1969 Plymouth Road Runner on eBay. “I’ve wanted that car since I was a little kid,” he said. “My garage used to be full of bourbon. Now there’s my childhood obsession.”

    No one around him doubts that there are tests to come even though the double vision is at bay, he is taking less medicine, and his head is clear. Though he has slowed down, the projects are stacking up. In coming months, he and Mr. Howard plan to open Husks in Greenville, S.C., and Savannah, Ga. A major television project is in the works.

    Mr. Brock is an official ambassador for the Myasthenia Gravis Foundation and is planning a series of fund-raising dinners with chefs who have won Michelin stars. He has joined the board of the Heirloom Foundation, which aims to help restaurant workers with mental health issues.

    Mostly he plans to enjoy his freedom.

    “Surrendering,” he said, “is the greatest feeling on the face of the planet.”


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